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Sunday, September 09, 2007

Tsukiji fish market

Wanna buy some fish at 5am?

Last week I was in Tokyo to meet some customers. A twelve hour flight, a one hour nap and into the office. I could barely stay awake. My body clock was still in Heathrow being scanned for a suspicious ticking... It was going to be an interesting set of meetings.

But I'm not here to talk shop.

I did manage to skip out of work early one day and visit the Tsukiji fish market - the biggest in the world. Here there are rows and rows of fish, crabs, prawns, mussels, mammal, and more fish fish fish. If it comes from the sea it is on sale here.

... did I just say mammal?


Guess what kind of meat is for sale under the picture of a happy whale...

Yep. That meat there is a product of intense research by the Japanese whaling fleet. Research that is served on a plate. Still grappling with how I feel about that.

But Tokyo isn't all endangered species. I spent a bit of time wandering around visiting gardens , temples and shops. The photos, of course, are on the website

Near the fish market is garden, the Hama Rikyu Detached Palace Garden. Since I was up early for the market, I was there before opening. I wanted to go to a Japanese garden, and this is one
of the most highly regarded. But it wasn't what I expected. All the ones I had seen would cram a lot into a small space, while holding zen truth: flowing water, rocks, sand, miniature maple trees, etc. This was a pretty garden with lakes, a tea house and lots of different areas. Quite enjoyable at 9am before the crowds turn up. Google-map-o-vision.

Onto Ginza - shopping mecca. Yet it is full of the usual big name international brands (Apple, Louis Vuitton, Zara, etc) so there is almost no point going there. If you're buying a present for a loved-one back home, nothing says Japan quite like Burberry. I spent four hours wandering the back streets trying to avoid the international capitalism, and my feet bore the burden.

Off to Asakusa Shrine (also called Sensoji temple), a fantastic working shrine; people getting fortunes, coating themselves in incense and cleansing their hands and body. Important note - do not spit back into the trough. The area was cheapened somewhat by the amusement park, tourist shopping strips and video game parlours.

Next, Ueno Koen Park. My feet hurt quite a lot now, but since I changed trains here, then I may as well get out and have a look.

Finally onto the Imperial Palace and the famous bridge photo. But by the time I got there, it was too dark to take anything sensible and my feet feel like puddles of fire. Crap. Shouldn't have wasted time at Ueno park.

All up, a mad day in Tokyo.

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